Jacksonville 4/25

An easy 10 mile ride east to the Atlantic, with great tailwind.  Needless to say, there was no gourmet breakfast at the Nassau. We decided this was third hotel which would not be Paula/Jen approved.   But the best of those 3.  So had breakfast with Santa at a diner in Fernandina then explored 'historic" Amelia.  After all the sites in SC/GA,  it didn't quite compare.  But the bike trail through Amelia, Talbot and Fort George islands was sweet.  Called a (necessary)  audible and took ferry across St John river, then cruised south along A1A to a Marriott in Jacksonville Beach. Upgrade for us!  Both of us commented that the miles are going by easily and we missed the 70+ days of earlier in the trip.  Arrival in time for face-off of bruins-penguins game,  some beach time and bittersweet tears of joy and sorrow. 45 miles.  

Travel day featured beach morning,  no massage, Frankel taking the go kart championship and 20 miles of exceptionally unpleasant riding to bike shop to drop off bikes for shipping.  Then good smoothies and bad Uber experience to the airport. Not coming back to Jacksonville. 

Podunk, FL 4-24

Back on 17 for the last time.  GA has well marked, great surfaced roads and cruised down about 20 miles before first sanctioned cutoff in woodbine where there's a paved rail trail (unpaved further north).. Then followed the Google directions, rather than the greenway site, onto groover rd where after a couple miles,  the road turned to sand.  Not gravel, not dirt, but literally sand.  Who makes a road out of sand?  And why did Google send us there?  We were cursing Jason for 3 miles, as we mostly walked.  Then back onto 17 for bbq in Kingsland, city of royal treatment.  Surprisingly, they had no salad but good roadside bbq!  As we watched the bad weather get closer, we headed south towards FL, getting 5 miles from yulee when the skies opened.  We waited for the predicted break, and then got most of the way to our hotel, before being solidly soaked by the Nassau hotel ($80).  At least we beat the hail. Ducked across the street for some bowling, Sinclair smoking frankel, more bbq and then one more day of riding.  50 miles.

Bonus day on jekyll 4-23

After a work morning, cycled around the island including great ride (checkout video!) on the beach among ghost trees, and the sunken car transport ship.  Then the big event - the mini golf showdown.  It was neck and neck throughout,  taking turns going up by 1 or 2. Then Sinclair went up 2 on the 17th,  Frankel surging back on 18th to tie it.  Or so it seemed, till Jean re-read the score card declaring himself the winner.  Alternative news he claims, as he was actually up by 3.  Paula said he cheats so the truth remains unknown.  Then crashed the Westin pool for smoothies and a nap before heading off the island into the sunset and Brunswick comfort suites. 25 miles

jekyll island 4-22

No discernable effects from our stay at the i95 Inn, except someone turned off the heat - 46 degrees to start the day, and a long way away from savannah culturally. Headed south to Darien for breakfast, teach a class and a tour of fort king George, built in early 1700s, supposedly the 1st English fort in Georgia. There is lots of history here from early 1700s as the French, British and Spanish territories met around here.  Cycled down to Brunswick for lunch at the mellow yellow deli. With salad AND smoothies. Many towns here have both historical and poorer areas; in Brunswick they seemed to change within 1 street corner. Also rode by butler plantation where 436 slaves were taken from,, and sold in Savannah to pay off some debts in 1859, now known as the weeping time. Shamefully, the island is still known by his name.  Then over another big bridge to Jekyll island by 3pm for beach/pool time. Off the bike for 24 hours planned. 43 miles.

podunk, GA 4-21

While the donuts at the Thunderbird worked for me, Jean and I set off through the city for alternatives for him.  When we walked into Le Cafe Gourmet,  Jean's 1st words were "they have crepes'   then he said it again. Explored some the 22 parks laid out by Oglethorpe in America's 1st planned city.  Or so they told us - hard to believe everything you hear about Georgia.  Checked out the historic riverfront (very old looking walls, but underdeveloped imho), 2nd biggest port in USA, the oldest reform synagogue (1733) in USA- peculiar as reform Judaism didn't emerge until the early 1800s. See earlier comment about Georgia. Savannah is beautiful with all the trees, parks and architecture. Then powered by smoothies and a nap, started really heading south along 17 (actual bike lane on shoulder in parts) around 2 30.  Got milkshakes at the DQ bike-thru on hot afternoon. No rush to get to our $45 country inn i95 in podunk.  (Actually it's in Eulonia, and it was better than Econolidge).  59 miles, 60% of them after 5pm. And before sunset. 

Savannah, GA 4-20

Slow morning at the HoJo,  then cycled into Beaufort for second breakfast by the water, and national park service tour.   Loved ranger Kaley who taught us about reconstruction and the sociological experiment that Beaufort was in that process.  Saw 157 year old African American church, which was one of first in the nation and learned about Robert Small.  Toured around beautiful antebellum houses and live oaks. Very cool!  Then cycled rest of swamp moss trail (okay, not outstanding), then a great tailwind brought us to nirvana- banana pudding, with real bananas. That propelled us across alligator alley in Savannah NWR, then into Georgia (disappointingly no sign) and south through port into Savanna, avoiding the big bridge.  Met up with Mark and Jenn for nice dinner and walk around town.  1 flat, 3 gators, 6 raindrops and the seriously retro Thunderbird inn.  56 miles  

Gators & gunfire, Beaufort, SC 4-19

Left our luxury digs after mediocre muffin, back over the bridge by 7.30am.  A record for us for sure.  Found a nice rail trail heading west out of the city, cranking out about 15 miles before stopping for a real breakfast at Waffle House.  Can't go wrong with Waffle House, and we spent next hour of the ride running the financials and decided its a solid business. Also had thoughts about SC senator Lindsay Graham,  and being unable to imagine him caring at all about some of the small towns we rode through. Some great miles along old jacksonboro rd, that looked like a road to nowhere on the map..  And then it was- first solid dirt,, then a grassy forest road with lowcountry swamp on either side.   Then we heard the gunshots.  We were happy to get back on 17 after that!  Got a gas station fried chicken lunch - a definite food lowlight, then 20 miles on 17, although with a good shoulder and only occasional headwind.  We, I mean John,  tried to avoid it by chartering a boat but after 3 captains said 'you want to do what?', we rode.   Great stretch down 43 where we saw a gator jump into the swamp.  Cruised into bew-frt along Swamp trail, and staying at retro HoJo hotel, blue walls and all.  Walked to Gilligan's for seafood dinner, watching the jets fly over the swamp.  75 miles.